Two Days in Singapore
Asia, I’m back! For those who don’t know, I spent two years living in Hong Kong and South Korea, and travelling much of East and Southeast Asia. But I haven’t been back again since I left in 2017. I was travelling home to Scotland after finishing my travels in New Zealand and Australia, so it was the perfect time to revisit Asia en route. I spent about three weeks in the region, visiting new and old destinations. After departing Esperance, with a connection in Perth, my first stop was Singapore. I spent a whirlwind single day here years ago, mainly focusing on Gardens by the Bay and around the marina. But I’d always wanted to come back to see more, so this time, I stayed for two days in Singapore (a common layover length of time) to explore other parts of the city.
Day One
Little India
Singapore is a melting pot of Asian cultures, with many having their own distinct neighbourhoods in the city. I didn’t have time for these on my last visit, so they were top of my list this time, starting with Little India. I hopped on the MRT from my hostel, emerging soon after in amongst streets of colourful buildings and the rich scent of spices in the air. Serangoon Road is the main thoroughfare, lined with shops decked in an astonishing amount of coloured signs, and with bright banners suspended overhead.
I didn’t have a destination in mind, so I just wanted to experience the neighbourhood, so I set off wandering the main road and its many side streets. I was enjoying the architecture, a mixture of colonial and contemporary, as you find throughout Singapore. There are also a fair number of murals, which depict scenes of the neighbourhood and aspects of Indian culture, further adding to the area’s character.
There are a couple of key sights to look out for here as well. The first is the Tan Teng Niah House. In such a colourful neighbourhood, it somehow manages to be the brightest building here. This 2-storey Chinese villa was built in 1900 by a Chinese businessman. Its brightly painted exterior, detailed designs, and wooden windows and shutters are beautiful to behold! You can’t go inside, but it’s worth seeing the outside.
Then, head back up Serangoon Road to the Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple. This Hindu temple is the oldest in Singapore and depicts dozens upon dozens of deities on its exterior. It’s dazzlingly colourful and intricate! I did see both locals and tourists going inside, but it looked quite busy, and I don’t know enough about Hindu temple etiquette, so I admired the outside only.
Kampong Gelam
I walked over to Kampong Gelam next, as the two areas are practically neighbours, so it’s not far. This is the Muslim Quarter of the city, with residents and businesses from a range of countries as far away as Turkey and Lebanon. Again, I was mostly just wandering around here! First up was the Sultan Mosque, which dominates the centre of the neighbourhood. Its pristine white walls, topped with stunning golden domes, make for an incredible piece of architecture. Again, I didn’t go inside, but I admired it from many angles outside.
Nearby, Muscat Street boasts an array of murals showing colourful scenes and nods to Singapore’s maritime trading history. I continued down Bussorah Street, a pedestrianised avenue lined with palm trees and colonial buildings with wooden shutters. The buildings house many restaurants, and other market stalls dot the street. From the other end, make sure to turn around for a gorgeous view of the mosque!
Then, I cut across a couple of blocks and turned onto Haji Lane, possibly the most popular street in this area. This narrow pedestrian street is crammed with shops and eateries. And yes, it’s very colourful as well! From even more stunning murals on the walls to signs and pieces of fabric hanging overhead, it’s a feast for the eyes. I ambled my way along it, window-shopping the myriad of wares on offer (I’m travelling light, so nothing made its way home with me). And despite the crowds, it felt very laidback and fun, not overwhelming or stressful at all, which was lovely!
Raffles Hotel
Leaving Kampong Gelam and these cultural neighbourhoods, my next stop was far more colonial by nature. Raffles Hotel is one of the oldest and most famous establishments in the city, named after Sir Stamford Raffles, the British founder of modern Singapore. Opened in 1887, the building is a perfect example of colonial architecture of the time, with its white walls, terracotta roof and wooden shutters. Of course, my budget meant I certainly wasn’t a guest staying here! But other tourists can still visit and explore the public areas. The hotel is a series of buildings with gardens and courtyards amongst them, to enjoy the tropical sunshine.
By now, I was ready to get inside and escape the humidity. Don’t forget how close Singapore is to the Equator! My destination was the Long Bar, where the Singapore Sling cocktail was invented in 1915. It’s like stepping back in time, with the original decor intact, including paddle fans on the ceiling and a hand-crank cocktail-shaker on the bartop. I was seated at the end of the bar, which meant getting to watch the bartenders work. Of course, I ordered the iconic drink; there are a few variations available, but I stuck with the original. Huge bags of peanuts for snacking line the room. And then you simply brush the empty shells on the floor, a tradition almost as old as the bar. Seriously, the staff actually tell you to! The cocktail was refreshing and delicious, but a bit pricey, so I only had one before heading out again.
On my way to the MRT station, I also passed another colonial building, St Andrew’s Cathedral. It’s a Gothic-style church but painted bright white, which is quite the unexpected contrast! I only saw it from a distance, but it was certainly striking!
Chinatown
The MRT whisked me towards the city centre and my third cultural neighbourhood of the day, Chinatown. Singapore’s population is multicultural for sure, but the ethnically Chinese make up its largest portion. South Bridge Road is the main street here, but make sure to explore the side streets as well, which is what I did, roaming in circles to see as many as possible. It was coming up to Lunar New Year soon, so the neighbourhood was even prettier, with red lanterns strung overhead.
Again, the buildings were older and historic, like the two areas I saw this morning, with colourful exteriors and wooden shutters. It’s amazing how each neighbourhood still felt totally different to each other though! Red is the dominant colour here, for good fortune, with signs painted with large Chinese characters. Though I spotted plenty of buildings painted other colours too! There are lots of murals here too, which mainly depict the Chinese history and culture of Singapore. The side streets also feature a lot of street vendors, selling everything from trinkets to foods
At the end of South Bridge Street, I came to the Buddha Tooth Relic Temple, a vast multi-storey Chinese Buddhist temple whose facade is painted deep, rich red. As the name implies, it houses the tooth relic of the Buddha himself. It was already closed for the day when I arrived, but I was content to marvel at its exterior. From there, I headed through Ann Siang Hill Park and along Telok Ayer Street, another historic street full of restaurants.
Lau Pa Sat
My route took me close to downtown, the two-storey historic buildings starting to give way to the towering glass skyscrapers of modern Singapore. However, my favourite part of this area is that the steel and glass are broken up by so much greenery. Singapore often refers to itself as a city in a garden, evidenced by the plants and trees that adorn its skyscrapers. It’s very inventive how the architects have incorporated them, making it difficult to see where nature ends and human constructions begin.
Anyway, my destination was another smaller, historic, cultural location. Lau Pa Sat is one of the most famous, popular hawker centres in Singapore. The venue is a Victorian-era, pagoda-style building, with a symmetrical, circular layout beneath its terracotta-tiled roof. It’s single-storey as well, which is quite the contrast among the vast skyscrapers that surround it. Down one side of the exterior lies Satay Street, a row of stalls exclusively grilling satay in the open air. Inside, there’s a huge variety of vendors and cuisines to choose from, with seating scattered up the aisles between them.
I spent a good while browsing and marvelling at all the options before coming to a decision. I’m primarily vegetarian these days, though I will make exceptions to try local dishes when travelling. However, on this occasion, I opted for some veggie dumplings with a milk bubble tea to wash them down. I also managed to snag a table (no easy feat in a busy venue!) to people-watch and soak up the bustling, vibrant atmosphere as I ate.
Spectra
Now technically, I did sort of see Spectra last time I was here, but we didn’t have the best view from the roof of the shopping centre. So this time, I planned a little more carefully. I caught the MRT over to Marina Bay Sands, exiting via the shopping centre again. On the way, I stopped to see the Rain Oculus, a waterfall installation. From outside, you can see the whirlpool of water from above. While inside, you can watch it tumble down in a spherical formation in the centre of a pool below. There’s even the option of a gondola ride around the falls! I missed this last time, and it only activates at certain times, so it was fun to catch it on this visit.
Outside, I nabbed a spot close to the harbourfront to watch the Spectra show. Of course, you get a great view of the lights of downtown Singapore while waiting as well. Then the show begins, a symphony of lights and fountains dancing on the water, set to music, against the backdrop of the city skyline. It’s free and takes place every night, but check the timings, of course. It’s fun and pretty and vibrant – just watch out for the viewing spots where you might get wet!
Supertree Grove
I wasn’t planning to go back to Gardens by the Bay or the Supertree Grove this time, but it’s just on the other side of the Marina Bay Sands. You can visit the Grove for free, whereas the glasshouses require a paid ticket. After quickly checking their schedule, I realised I could make it over in time to see the Garden Rhapsody show, where the Supertrees flash their lights to musical accompaniment. I think the trees are so beautiful and interesting, so I jumped at the chance to see them again. Everyone sits on the ground at their bases, stretched out and gazing skywards, waiting for the show to begin. They change the music every few weeks, and it was classical opera that night, which made for a very dramatic experience!
The show only lasts 10-15 minutes, after which I crossed back to the Marina Bay Sands to catch the MRT again. Another fun addition, though, the underground pedestrian tunnel has huge mirrors down one section, so loads of young dancers use this as a rehearsal and filming space. It was unexpected but very cool to see how talented some of them are!
Day Two
Singapore Botanic Gardens
For my second day in Singapore, I was taking things a bit easier, having now covered a lot of my top choice locations. I started off at a different garden, the Singapore Botanic Gardens. These are a bit further away from the city centre, a ride away on the MRT. They’re free to enter as well, so a great budget-friendly option. As always in Singapore, the weather was hot and humid, so I had to factor that into how long I walked for at a time. Although it was forecast to get stormier that afternoon, hence my indoor plans later on.
Anyway, the Botanic Gardens are pretty extensive and feature plants from a range of countries and gardens in all sorts of designs and layouts. You might also find some wildlife along the way too, with lizards by the paths and bird life in the ponds. I enjoyed the Evolution Garden, which takes you on a winding path through plant history, going back millions of years. It was something quite different and unique compared to other Botanic Gardens I’ve visited before. And while I wasn’t there at the right time for a show, seeing a performance on the Symphony Lake stage must be stunning! You do have to pay entry to visit the National Orchid Garden, so I skipped this one. I finished up with lunch in one of the cafes, enjoying a seat outside but in the shade, before returning to the MRT.
National Museum of Singapore
Next up, I headed indoors as the sky turned overcast. The National Museum of Singapore was undergoing some renovations during my visit, so only some areas were open. Fortunately, the History Gallery was still open, which would have probably been my first pick anyway. It took me on a journey through this island nation’s history, including its prehistory and early inhabitants. But the main focus was the colonial era onwards, when Britain established a trade colony here, and then the country subsequently gained its independence. I knew the bare bones of all of this, but it was interesting to learn more details and understand the context of Singapore and its history further. There was also a temporary photography exhibit in the basement, about the Amazon rainforest – not exactly local, but some stunning images!
Fort Canning Park
The museum is right next door to Fort Canning Park, so this was my logical next stop. The hilltop is where Sir Stamford Raffles, considered the founder of Singapore, built his residence, which later became known as Government House. This was later demolished and replaced by a military fort, giving the park its present name. When the army left the fort, the area was turned into a park and historic landmark. I took a wander up past the stately colonial-style building that houses the visitor centre, though I didn’t venture inside. I also passed Raffles House (a modern rebuild, not his original residence) which sits perched above the flagstaff. The park has plenty of nature and plants to enjoy too, so it made for a nice walk even on an overcast day.
Clarke Quay & Boat Quay
My route then took me back downhill towards the Singapore River. Clarke Quay sits on the northern shore, and Boat Quay to the south, with my hostel just behind the latter. To be honest, I was probably in the area a little early, as it seemed to be mainly restaurants and was therefore a bit quiet mid-afternoon. Anyway, Clarke Quay is a redeveloped warehouse district, transformed into a shopping centre. Rather than one big building, though, it’s a series of streets with canopies hung between the buildings for shelter and a large fountain in the centre. The buildings are painted pastel shades of pink, green, yellow and purple, creating a bright, fun hub of shops and eateries.
It was also nice to wander along the riverside, and I headed upstream for a bit before using a pedestrian bridge to cross. Walking back downriver again on the other side offered great views of the colourful buildings! Then I rounded the riverbend and reached Boat Quay. This narrow, pedestrianised street is densely packed with eateries, most of them with outdoor seating overlooking the river. It is a bit overwhelming with the many signs and staff trying to lure you in! But that busy, chaotic vibe is what I’ve learned to expect in Asia in general. I wandered along, enjoying the riverside views, before returning to the hostel.
Jewel Changi Airport
My flight was very early the next morning, so early that the MRT doesn’t run at that time of day! So, I spent my last night in Singapore in an airport hotel. Which was a great excuse to explore the airport as well! Jewel Changi Airport is famously one of the best-rated airports in the world, and that’s partly thanks to its shopping and recreation centre in the middle of the terminals. Locals even come out here just for the mall, without getting a flight! I checked in and dropped my bags, then went for a wander around for the evening.
Of course, the star attraction is the Jewel Rain Vortex. The world’s tallest indoor waterfall hurtles down in the centre of the spherical mall, the sound of rushing water permeating the building. It lights up different colours, especially brilliant at night, for a dazzling rainbow effect. Around the sides of the central chamber, a myriad of plants deck the stairs and balconies, making the whole thing feel like a tropical rainforest. For a busy shopping centre, it made it feel surprisingly peaceful!
Naturally, the mall is full of shopping and dining options, but there is also Canopy Park, the entertainment complex with hanging nets, huge slides, a hedge maze, and more. I picked up a few essentials I needed for the next phase of my trip, and grabbed dinner in an all-vegetarian restaurant. Before it was time for bed in my snug pod, ahead of my flight in the morning.
Two Days in Singapore
Now, keeping in mind my day here from a few years ago, I think if you only have two days in Singapore, my recommended itinerary would be a mix of my two trips. I loved the Gardens by the Bay, so I’d suggest making that the focus of one day, alongside the marina in general and Chinatown, if time permits. Then the other day, head to Little India, Kampong Glam, Raffles Hotel and the Clarke & Boat Quays. While I did enjoy the Botanic Gardens and National Museum, and they’re worth a visit if you have three days, I wouldn’t place them above the other locations mentioned.
All in all, I’m definitely glad I came back to see more of Singapore, as one day certainly wasn’t enough! I’m sure there are plenty more places to uncover, many of which will only be known to locals. But as a common layover destination, 2-3 days is a good amount of time to see the best of the city. Given that it’s only 50 years old as a country, it’s incredible how quickly it has developed. And how it feels safe, clean, friendly and comfortable, even in the busier places. I enjoyed experiencing such a mixture of cultures in a fairly small area as well, with the colours, scents and chaos all reminding me of my previous travels in Asia.
From Singapore, the next part of my journey would take me to Malaysia, another country I had previously visited. But this time, I was off to a new region I hadn’t travelled to before: the island of Borneo.
